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How to Plant and How to Care for Trees
Tree Benefits | How to Plant and Care for Trees | County Forest and Tree Programs | Tree Laws & Standards | Gypsy Moths | Timber Harvests | Champion Trees
On this page: Tree Owners Manual | Coupons | Buying a Tree | Planting a Tree | Mulching | Fertilizing | Watering
Want to plant a tree?
- Plant a tree and save some green! Now there are two COUPONS available for you to plant trees. It is a great time to plant green and save green!
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Marylanders Plant Trees – Save $25 off a Tree Be counted towards the state’s goal of 50,000 trees by 2010 – and save $25 off your new tree! Check out www.trees.maryland.gov for information and advice on where, how and what type of trees to plant, and your printable discount coupon. After planting, register your trees and calculate the benefits they provide. Let’s make Montgomery County one of the best contributors in the State!
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Leaves for Neighborhoods – Save $25 off a Tree Montgomery Planning Department‘s program “Leaves for Neighborhoods” will save you green when you plant trees. Print out the coupon here to save $25 off a tree purchase of $75 or more. At nurseries participating in both this program and the state program you can use both coupons together to save the most! |
Start planning now to include tree planting at your community Arbor Day, Earth Day or other special event. Tree-Mendous Maryland can provide high quality native trees at low cost. -back to top
How to buy a tree
Planting a tree sounds easy enough, but there are a few things to consider before the tree goes in the ground. By making a handful of careful choices as you select what to buy and where to plant it, your tree will be healthier and you’ll enjoy it more.
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Select the right tree for the right place. Where do you want to plant your tree(s) and why? Planting a tree for shade can save energy. Consider the full size potential, or how big the tree will grow, before you plant. Check for utility lines overhead, and always call Miss-Utility at 1.800.257.7777 or submit a request online before you dig.
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Select the right tree species for your site. Native trees are preferable to non-natives because of their natural pest and disease resistance and adaptation to the local landscape. See a list of native trees here. Learn more about buying native plants from the Maryland Native Plant Society.
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Select the best tree from the nursery. When choosing a containerized tree (a tree grown in a pot vs. a ball & burlap), check for girdling or encircling roots. Have a nursery assistant help you slide the root ball out of the container to get a good look at it. You should see a root system that is proportionate in size to the crown. And you should see some new growth – look for clean white tips on the ends of the roots. Avoid undersized or discolored leaves that do not look “normal”, and avoid heavily pruned branches.
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How to plant a tree
Want to plant your own tree but don't know how? The local Casey Trees Foundation has helpful pictures and a printable guide to take outside with you when you plant.
Tree Planting Tutorial (Casey Trees Foundation)
Printable Tree Planting Guide (Casey Trees Foundation, 2 pgs)
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How to care for your trees
Tree Owner's Manual- this is a fabulous guide! The U.S. Forest Service has published a Tree Owner's Manual to guide you through the care of your trees from purchase to planting and maintenance. Download and print your own free copy of this valuable resource here. |
Conserve Moisture- Mulch!
Put mulch around all trees twice a year to maintain a layer between 2 and 3 inches deep. Mulching keeps weeds and grass away from trees so they won’t use the water before it gets to the tree roots. Mulch around your trees also conserves moisture in the soil, adds nutrients and organic matter, and keeps it cooler. Check out our Mulch Meters for additional tips on mulch.
Fertilize Properly Please do NOT fertilize newly planted trees. In later years, fertilizing might be beneficial (see 'Deep Root Fertilization' below). You can get help to determine appropriate methods and rates of application by contacting the University of Maryland Home and Garden Information Center at 1.800.342.2507, or www.hgic.umd.edu.
Deep Root Fertilization You may not hear them complaining, but your trees are hungry. Trees growing in our yards and cities rarely receive the same nutrients they would if they were growing in a forest. In order to increase your trees’ vigor, deep-root fertilization can add those nutrients back into the soil. Well-nourished trees are stronger and less susceptible to disease, insects, drought, and other stresses.
Deep-root fertilization effectively provides nutrients to trees because it is directed to a tree’s feeder roots. Getting fertilizer below the grass to the roots of trees is important and not overly complex. Many licensed tree care companies offer this service, but it can also be done on your own with the proper supplies including an auger or fertilizer probe, hose, and a measuring tape.
“How to” Deep Root Fertilize:
- Always follow the directions on the label of the fertilizer. - Test your soil before fertilizing to determine what is lacking. Click here to learn about collecting and mailing your soil sample. - Never fertilize a newly planted tree. After two growing seasons, test your soil to see if fertilization is needed. - Time it right: Fertilize in October or November to encourage root development and/or in March or April, just after the soil has thawed to encourage tip and leaf growth. - Choose a fertilizer for trees; it’s not the same as fertilizer for grass. Look for “Tree” or “Evergreen” (if you have pines, spruces or other trees with needles) and water insoluble nitrogen (WIN) on the label. Good fertilizers can be found at home & garden or hardware stores and cost about $1-3 per pound. - Use a slow-release fertilizer to protect the quality of water in our watersheds. - Choose your method of application:
- Fertilizer stakes are pushed into the ground below the grass, - Granular fertilizer is placed into in holes you drill in the soil (about 10 inches deep), or - Liquid fertilizer is injected 8-10 inches below the surface into the soil with a probe
- Visualize your target, where to put the fertilizer? Fertilize under the branches of the tree in a grid formation, about every 2 ft. Start at the dripline, or the ends of the branches, and go in towards the stem of the tree. For all trees, put fertilizer in about 2/3 of the way from the tips of the branches in to the tree trunk. For very large trees, stay about 6-8 feet away from the stem of the tree. This is the area that has the highest concentration of roots
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Water Your Trees Why Water? Newly planted trees require extra water in the summer when its hot. Be sure to water young trees each week that it doesn’t rain significantly in the summer, especially July and August. Each tree should receive three to five gallons of water per week. Established trees and shrubs rarely need watering besides rain water; however, in the heat of July and August watering big trees helps reduce stress and makes trees healthier.
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Slow and Steady Tree roots require slow, deep watering. Do not water with a spray nozzle. Instead, here are several good methods that use less water and are more effective.
- Use a soaker hose. A soaker hose is a specially designed hose that allows water to seep out all along the hose. Place the hose near the tree trunk. Turn the water faucet on with very low pressure for one hour. If possible, cover the hose with mulch. You can leave it in place during the summer for easy watering

- Use clean buckets or plastic milk jugs with tiny pin holes in the bottom that allow water to drip out (not flow out). Place a full bucket near the tree trunk. Put rocks in the bottom to keep it from blowing away or falling over. Check to ensure that it empties in several hours.
- Use gator bags, or specialized tree watering bags; they use the same slow-drip technique as above. Remove these bags from the tree once emptied of water. If left on too long, bacteria may attack your tree or rodents could eat your trees from inside the bag.
- Use your regular garden hose: turn on the water, then turn the faucet as near to completely off as possible but allow some water to slowly drip out. Leave your dripping hose near the base of your tree for 2 hours on one side of the tree, and then move to another side for an additional 2 hours.
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